Electric scooters are becoming more and more popular, but they can be expensive. In this blog post, we will teach you How to hotwire an Electric Scooter so that you can save some money. Be sure to use caution when performing this tutorial, as it involves working with electricity. Happy riding!
How To Hotwire An Electric Scooter
Hot wiring is the process of bypassing an ignition system to start an engine, or in this case, a scooter. This guide covers how to do it safely unless you are under the age of 18.
There is no individual who has not had access to an electric scooter at some point in their life. Whether it’s just down the road or in the next town over, there is always a chance you will find one lying around.
I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that most of us know how they work in the sense that you press the throttle, and off you go.
But what happens when your battery runs dead? You could buy a brand new pack for around $100-150, but why would you do that when someone else has thrown theirs away!
At some point, all-electric scooters are put into storage or just abandoned because their battery gives up, giving them no more life. I have never seen an e-scooter with less than 6 volts so getting it started is possible even if it’s not fully charged enough to operate itself.
This guide does not cover how to make the Scooter run again once it has been left for months at a time, nor will it work on e-scooters with major battery pack problems. In fact, this is meant more as a last resort than anything else if you find yourself stranded with no one around to help.
This guide also only applies to scooters that kids have used. If your Scooter was made for an adult and has an anti-theft system installed, then you should leave it alone because it’s probably set up so that it can’t be started without first turning on.
You may also note that this is not guaranteed to work with all scooters. I am unaware of any company that uses the same battery-to-key system for all their models, but it’s possible. As long as you’re able to get it running in some sort of fashion, then you should be good, though!
You will need these tools…
A screwdriver, flathead, or Philip’s head are preferred.
Two insulated wires – at least 18 gauge but no smaller than 16 gauge is preferable A bike chain – about 2 feet works best Electrical tape Wire stripper Connectors for your two different sized wires (if needed) Safety glasses Scooter key.
You listed safety glasses here because you will need to take apart and expose the wires, and you don’t want metal dust in your eyes!
Just a quick note – I know how much we love taking things apart and doing whatever we can with whatever we have. When it comes to hotwiring an electric vehicle, you must do nothing unless instructed because this guide is meant for people who already have a scooter that has been run down or simply won’t start due to a dead battery.
In no way am I encouraging anyone to do anything they are not sure about, nor am I responsible if something should go wrong while attempting this due to inexperience or lack of knowledge. If there happens to be a short, then heat will increase, which could lead to a fire, so please be aware of this.
Before we start, let’s go ahead and take off the seat so that you can easily access the wiring underneath it. The wires are black with a yellow stripe down the middle; covering them is just a thin piece of fabric.
Use your screwdriver to gently pry up the staples that hold it in place until the entire cover comes off. Now pull it back away from where you can’t see any wires or connectors!
Please make sure everything is unplugged before continuing! Locate where all your battery pack wires connect through one main wire at the top left corner, closest to where you sit while driving it around town. If there is any extra along the way, then focus on the wire that goes into the “on/off” switch.
You want to follow the wires through to where they’re connected, but once you do – you’ll notice they are all connected by a connector with three holes alongside it.
You need two insulated wires; I have chosen 18 gauge for mine because it’s long enough and thick enough to handle most tasks at hand. Cut both your wires so that there is about five feet of wire for each one or however much needed in order for you to reach from behind the seat down towards the front without any sort of obstruction.
You might also want to have some extra just in case if something goes wrong while attempting this guide!
This part is optional if you don’t have any connectors with your wires. If you do, then go ahead and strip away enough of the rubber coating to expose the metal underneath, twist them together by hand (it doesn’t matter which wire is positive or negative) until they are tight enough around each other for it to stay on its own without help. If there is no type of connector available, then proceed to step 3.
Now that your wires are ready make sure everything is unplugged again! Take out the white plastic cover behind where your seat was located – this gives us access to our wiring! Take off any black insulation over the red wire in order to reveal both the black and red wire underneath, as seen below.
Bareback your red wire by slicing away at the black plastic coating; make sure you go deep enough to expose the metal underneath. After this is done, please take out your two wires and strip them right down until they expose the metal too!
Connectors might not be needed if you got a stronghold on one another. Still, for my own personal use, I used heat shrink tubing over both ends in order to prevent any sort of accidents from occurring while driving around town (or even when it’s parked).
Now, connect your insulated wires into place onto that connector – no matter which wire goes where because we will fix that later after everything has been put back together. Go ahead and tape up all exposed wiring with electrical tape – just make sure nothing is dangling around and keep all wires out of the way from coming into contact with any moving parts.
Now, take your new switch and place it in between the red and black wire. Make sure to connect the negative side (usually has a -) with the one on your wiring connector while connecting the positive side (usually has a +) to directly where you will be plugging it in at! Connecting either end is fine because we will fix that later when everything is back together.
BE VERY CAREFUL, DO NOT CONNECT THE NEGATIVE OR POSITIVE SIDES TOGETHER EXCEPT FOR WHERE YOU ARE PLUGGING IT IN ON THE MOTORCYCLE ITSELF!!!
If this happens, then you will most likely receive a very unpleasant shock!
Since all the wiring is now done, please take a moment to double-check everything and make sure it is all still taped up! Once you are satisfied with your work, move on to reassembling. Put the black insulation back around where you originally peeled it from.
Take special care not to cut any wires or harm anything while putting the cover back into place – if that does happen, then tape it up securely from there.
Reattach the seat and screw in each staple until it’s nice and tight again – remember, though, do not over tighten them as you might crack the plastic housing of your seat! Now just attach your battery pack onto your bike – pay close attention to how this was originally attached for your safety and not cause any accidents! Put everything back into place, tighten each lug nut by screwing it clockwise.
This might be a lot of work, but I promise that you will thank me later on down the road (and also like this article better than that other scooter “how-to’s” out there on the internet)!
You have now successfully hotwired an electric scooter! Enjoy being able to do wheelies with ease on your newfound power.
Remember, though, only wheelie if it’s safe at a speed where you can handle it AND ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET WHEN RIDING!!!
Thank you again for reading this guide, and good luck with all future endeavors!